Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
